Peak Climbing in Nepal

Posted on Jan 4, 2018 by NepalTravel under Trekking

Tags: Peak Climbing in Nepal, Mera Peak, Island peak

Peak Climbing in Nepal is considered the keystone activity that Nepal offers to the climbers than any country in the world. The eight out of the fourteen 8000m peaks lie in Nepal including Mt. Everest (8000m), the highest peak in the world. Ever since, the country opened its peaks to climbers in 1949, the mountaineering activity has become the most popular trend of alluring thousands of adventures seekers to Nepal every Year.

Peak Climbing Permit in Nepal

You will be required to get a climbing permit before departing on any expedition. The permit will only be issued to you if you have a registered Sidar(guide) traveling with your group, the expedition leader is required to collect the permit in person for the Nepal Mountaineering Association. The permit is valid for a period of one month and an additional fee of 25% of the original permit fee is payable per week for a maximum of two weeks. Permit fees are not refundable after full payment is made. An additional garbage deposit is charged at US$ 450 per group, this will be refunded after the expedition has left the area in a satisfactory state. The maximum number permit able for a peak trekking group is twelve people.

A list of fees for “A” class peaks

1-4 people US$ 350
5-8 people US$ 350 plus US$ 40 per person
9-12 people US$ 510 plus US$ 25 per person

Name of Peak Altitude in Meter Location / Zone

Mera Peak 6654 m. Khumbu Sagarmatha
Chulu East 6584 m. Damodar Gandaki
Singu Chuli (Fluted-Peak) 6501 m. Annapurna Gandaki
Humchuli 6441 m. Annapurna Gandaki
Chulu West 6419 m. Damodar Gandaki
Kusum Kanguru 6367 m. Khumbu Sagarmatha
Pachermo 6187 m. Rolwaling Janakpur
Imja Tse (Island Peak) 6183 m. Khumbu Sagarmatha
Lobuche 6119 m Khumbu Sagarmatha
Pisang 6091 m. Damodar Gandaki
Kwangde(Kawande) 6011 m. Rolwaling Sagarmatha
Ramdung 5925 m. Rolwaling Janakpur
Paldor Peak 5896 m. Ganesh Himal Bagmati
Khongma (Mehra) 5849 m. Khumbu Sagarmatha
Ganja La Chuli 5844 m. Langtang Bagmati
Pokhalde 5806 m. Khumbu Sagarmatha
Tharpu Chuli (Tent-Peak) 5663 m. Annapurna Gandaki
Mardi Himal 5587 m. Annapurna Gandaki

The role for your required Sidar or guide will be as follows

• To assist the climbing party with recruitment of porters and other staff, control of porters, local purchase of food etc, and to solve any problem that may arise to the best of his ability.
• To report to Nepal Mountaineering Association in case the party spends more than the prescribed time limit in the Mountain.
• To ensure that the climbers comply with the terms of their permit and follow the correct route and that they do not infringe any NMA rules
• To ensure proper disposal of waste materials.
• Other things you should make note of are that on your return to Kathmandu, the party will be required to submit a report to NMA. Your group will also have to nominate a representative (registered trekking company) to act on their behalf in Nepal before and during the expedition.
• Should the trekking party fail to adhere to the terms of the permit then fines may be issued.

Peak Permit Fee

Group Cost Total Cost
• 1 - 4 Pax US$ 350 .00 US$ 350 .00
• 4+1 Pax =5 US$ 350 +40 US$390.00
• 4+2 Pax =6 US$ 350+80 US$ 430.00
• 4+3 Pax = 7 US$ 350+120 US$ 470.00
• 4+4 Pax = 8 US$ 350+160 US$ 510.00
• 8+1 Pax = 9 US$ 510. +25 US$ 535.00
• 8+2 Pax = 10 US$ 510+50 US$ 560.00
• 8+3 Pax =11 US$ 510+75 US$ 585.00
• 8+4 Pax =12 US$ 510+100 US$ 610.00
US$ 250.00 should be deposited to NMA as as garbage deposit. The refund shall be be made as per the provisions made by NMA.

List of Peak Climbing in Nepal

To stand on top of a Himalayan peak, and feel the sense of achievement of having scaled a mountain much bigger than anything in the Alps is the ultimate dream for many trekkers, and indeed climbers.

In 1978 the Nepal Mountaineering Association designated a number of peaks throughout Nepal as trekking peaks, which could be attempted with a minimum of bureaucracy or formality, and this has allowed the dream of a Himalayan ascent to be realized for many people. A more appropriate title, however, would be non-expedition peaks as none can be trekked up, and some present serious mountaineering challenges.

1. Island Peak

Duration: about 20 days
Trek days: about 16 days
Max. Altitude: 6189m
Island Peak trip is a special trek which combines an ascent of Island Peak with a visit to the famous Everest Base Camp. It is the most popular trekking peak in Nepal which combines a spectacular approach trek with a fantastic summit and great views of the Khumbu area. You can start from Lukla and trek slowly up the Dudh Kosi valley. After a trip to visit Everest Base Camp you can branch off to Chukkung and then onto Island Peak Base Camp to prepare for the ascent of Island Peak.
Island Peak was the name given to the mountain in 1952 by Eric Shiptons party who thought it to be reminiscent of an island in a sea of ice. It is also known by its Nepali name of Imja Tse. The mountain is an extension of Lhotse Shar, and is located between the Lhotse and Imja glaciers, standing at 6189m/20305ft.
The final ridge is a classic of its kind and from the summit fabulous views can be enjoyed of many Himalayan giants including the immense south face of Lhotse and the huge peak of Ama Dablam. This trek is a tea-house trek, with tents and fully kitchen service being provided at Base Camp. Transport to and from the Everest region is by air. 

2. Mera Peak

Duration: about 18 days
Trek days: about 14 days
Max. Altitude: 6654m
Mera Peak is Nepals highest trekking peak standing at 6654m and is situated in an uninhabited and unspoilt part of Nepal to the south-east of Everest which gives a real wilderness experience and a sense of exploration in the rarely visited Hinku valley. Hinku valley is one of the wildest and most beautiful in Nepal. This will allow you to sample a true wilderness experience en route to Mera.
This trek is started by flying to Lukla and from here proceed slowly to the east, crossing the Zatr La, and after eight days trekking we reach Khare from where you may base ascent. From the Mera La it is possible to ascend to the summit in one day, but you can make use of a high camp to increase your chances of success. The steady climb to the north summit rewards efforts with one of the finest viewpoints in Nepal, giving fantastic views of five 8000m peaks, Everest and Lhotse to the north, Kanchenjunga and Makalu to the east, and Cho Oyu to the west.
This tresk has stay in tea-houses en route but at High Camp you can operate a fully equipped camping trek with accommodation in two person tents and food being cooked by kitchen staff. Transport to and from the Everest region is generally by air.


Whilst Lobuche west, well seen at the head of the Lobuche glacier, requires and expedition permit.
Lobuche peak is an attractive summit, offering a variety of existing routes and wide scope for new lines. Seen from near Pheriche, the dark triangle of its rocky east face rises above the moraines of the Khumbu Glacier to and icy skyline. This skyline forms the south ridges, the junction of the east faces with the glaciated south west face and the line of the normal route of ascent. This in turn leads to the summit ridge running north-west from the top of the east faces through several small summits to the east peak.

4. Pisang Peak (6091 m / 19983 ft)

Seen from Pisang the peak raises from yak pastures above the village in a uniform slope to the final summit pyramid, which is an undistinguished snow and ice slope. Looked at from above Ongre, the peak is a little more interesting and can be seen as a curved ridge, with the faces above Pisang being the truncated southern end of the mountain. This is made up of steeply titled rock, the dip slope of which faces the valley and is well seen in this peak and the great rock slabs further down the valley.
The peak obviously has a lot of scope for exploration and pioneering the whole of the western flank, which is guarded by hanging glacier, would appear to offer a considerable challenge, whilst a traverse of the whole summit ridge, which connect to a more northern summit before curving back west looks a superb possibility. Access to the western end of the ridge, however, looks problematical as the ridge as guarded by huge rock slabs, a feature on this side of the valley.

5. Langtang Climber

A short approach trek is followed by a combination of two interesting climbs, Yala Peak and Naya Kanga in the easily accessible and beautiful Langtang area.
Duration: about 17 days
Trek days: about 12 days
Max. Altitude: 5844m
Naya Kanga (5844 m/19180 ft)
Viewed from the hill above Kyangjin Gompa in the Langtang Valley, Naya Kanga is a shapely mountain rising to the west of the Ganja La (5122m/16800ft) which is a popular, although at times difficult, pass giving access to Helambu and the Kathmandu Valley. The normal route of ascent on Naya Kanga is via the North-East Ridge, an aesthetic line on snow and ice, classically alpine in character.
The Langtang valley lies roughly thirty kilometers north of Kathmandu quite close to the border with Tibet. Indeed one of the rewards of gaining the Ganja La of the summit of Naya Kanga is the superb views of peaks close to or in Tiber. The stunning panorama looking north-east over peaks in the Jugal Himal includes Lanshisa Ri (6370m/ 20899ft), Penthang Ri (6836m/ 22428ft), and Pemthang Karpo Ri, or Dome Blanc (6830m/ 22412ft), to Shishapangma (8046m/26398ft) which is the highest peak in Chinese territory and the last of the 8,000metre summits to be climbed.

6. Yala Peak (5500 m / 18045 ft)

Yala is a “trekking peak" in the Langtang Region of Nepal. It is classed as Grade F (facile/easy) on the Alpine Grading system although this can vary by a point or so depending on the snow conditions. The summit gives surprisingly good views of Shishapangma if you are lucky enough with the weather. This is an excellent peak as a first - in the Himalayas. The route involves a base camp at the end of the trail and a high camp a further half days trek beyond base.

7. Pharchamo (6187 m / 20298 ft)

West to the Khumhu and close to the Tibetan frontier is a wild, isolated high valley the "Rolwaling" - drifted down between steep snowcapped peaks. This splendid valley is unspoilt and apart from the ravaging onslaught of trekkers.
Parchamo is an attractive Peak that fascinates every trekker passing through. It was 1955 when climbed for the first time. South to the Tashi Lapcha it has a north-by-northwest ridge, which rises from the crevassed glacier astride the Tashi Lapcha. The face of the ridge forms a uniform slope broken by crevasse and series.

8. Tharpu Chuli (5500 m / 18045 ft)

This is short trek into the Annapurna Sanctuary, a spectacular cirque stuck right in the heart of the Annapurna Range surrounded by a collection of Himalayan giants. This is the best trip for climbing a peak in the Himalayas in the shortest amount of time, an excellent introduction to climbing in the Nepal Himalaya. From Kathmandu, you can travel to Pokhara from where the trek begins. Along the trek you will be travelling through a variety of villages, climates and cultures. A bit shorter than the Circle Annapurna trek, with equally amazing views of Machupachare, Annapurna I, II, III, and IV, Angapurna, and Hiunchuli. While in the Sanctuary you can attempt Tent Peak, a technically easy, yet challenging 19,000 ft. peak.

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